THE BLOG
Still here, having a great time !
27/01/2013 | Comments (5) |

 

 

Hey i’m still in Hawaii, i have been around for a while now and been visiting and surfing other islands too, having the best time and also i have been spending so much time in the water in all kind of waves lately, so happy about that, from 2 feet to 20 feet i’ve been in the water. I still don’t know how long i’m going to be here for, i guess as long as there’s swell. I broke pretty much half of my quiver so i’ve been running low on surfboards. I try spend lots of time in the outer reef when it’s big, i feel like i learn more and more everyday about big boards and big waves, i’m lucky to be able to surf all these waves. Mahalo

 

 

Je suis toujours a Hawaii, ça commence a faire longtemps, c’est tellement rare que je sois au même endroit pendant presque 3 mois, je bouge beaucoup quand même, j’ai était sur les autres iles, il y a tellement de vagues dans le coin c’est incroyable !

Je passe énormément de temps a l’eau en ce moment, j’ai rarement autant surfe, que ce soit petit ou gros. Je sent que je prend beaucoup d’expérience dans les conditions extreme, je commence a bien connaitre mes grande planches, et j’apprend surtout a contrôler l’adrénaline etc…Je ne sais pas encore combien de temps je vais rester dans les iles, j’ai casse pratiquement toute mes planches donc il me reste plus grand chose. Je vais quand même bientôt devoir aller sur la Gold Coast en Australie pour préparer la première épreuve a Snapper. Mahalo

 

JF

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