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Portugal has been fun, now back to France !
09/01/2012 | Comments (6) |

 

Hey i’ve been on the road in search of some waves with warmer weather, so far we’ve been thru Spain and stopped in Portugal. We surfed some amazing waves in Peniche for a couple days, i remembered how frustrated i was missing the world tour event in Supertubos a few month ago, well i had my vengeance and got it for ourself with no one out, it was pretty solid, broke a few boards but all fun and barrels with my friends Miky and Patrick. We also had a few surf in Ericeira, the swell was much smaller so it was very crowded everywhere, but managed to catch some and starting to push my turns more and more. My ankle feels much better but it’s still not 100% , i can still feel some pain in certain positions on my board, getting better though but shit i’m patient…We are going to drive back to France and i’m thinking of maybe going to Hawaii this week and surf there, i have been seeing non stop swells there, would be good to surf some powerful waves and warm water.

 

Tout se passe pour le mieux au Portugal, nous avons eu la chance de surfer des super vagues, a Peniche les premiers jours puis a Ericeira. Je me rappel avoir eu a travers de la gorge de ne pas avoir pu participer a l’épreuve du world tour a Péniche il y a quelques mois, maintenant je peux dire que je me suis bien rattrapé, sans personnes a l’eau, juste entre pote, accompagné de Miky et Patrick, la houle était solide, bien 3 mètres en série, j’ai casse quelques planches mais c’est tout, juste trop bon de faire des barrels. Ensuite nous sommes allé a Ericeira, la houle avait déjà bien baisse donc il y avait beaucoup de monde a l’eau, mais sympa pour faire des manoeuvres, je commence a pousser un peu plus sur mes appuis même si parfois je ressent encore une petite douleurs a ma cheville, il faut être patient… Nous allons reprendre la route direction Hossegor puis je vais surement tracer sur Hawaii en fin de semaine, les houles n’arrêtent pas donc je me dit que ça peut être une bonne idée, eau chaude, vagues puissante…

 

JF

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